Medieval route 2012

After some days (and maybe months) of indecision, I finally decided to follow a medieval route during my holidays in August 2012. I did not want to go too far and because of this I chose to visit the following cities and towns: Girona, Castelló d’Empúries and Carcassonne. Apart from this, I was also able to visit Vilabertran and Perelada, two other villages that also belong to the province of Girona, although I saw these for a shorter time. I also made a diversion to the canals of Empuriabrava and the natural park of the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà. Apart from some little inconveniences, the route was very successful and, although I travelled alone, I enjoyed my trip. In the following paragraphs I intend to describe the most significant things I found in all these beautiful places and also explain the most interesting experiences that I had during those days.

Part 1 - The city of Girona

At first, I wanted to go directly to Castelló d’Empúries but I couldn’t find the accommodation I wanted there on the first day of my holiday. Taking advantage of this situation, I decided to visit Girona, the capital of the province with the same name. My intention was to consult the archive of Girona Cathedral and to take a walk in the oldest district of the city. However, things turned out very differently. Of course, the archive was closed (it was August, when everything shuts down in Spain) but, thanks to this, I was able to spend more time visiting the city.

I had been there before, but always for a short time, and because of a concert or some other event. I imagined that there were only a few important things to visit but, after being there for 24 hours, I realized that I would need more time to visit the city in the way it deserves. It was really spectacular and more monumental than I could ever imagine.

The most important medieval buildings in the city are the Cathedral, the church of Sant Feliu – or Sant Fèlix – and the walls. Apart from these, the Jewish quarter and the streets that surround it are very impressive. The irregularity of the design of the streets, the stone, the stairs and other elements of this quarter give you the feeling that you are in a medieval village when you walk through it. The atmosphere is especially warm at night (it was summer). The convivial gatherings on the bar terraces contribute to this sense of warmth.

The Cathedral and the Church of Sant Feliu are constructed in the Gothic style although some Romanic elements can also be found.  For example, the tower of the Cathedral, which is placed next to the cloister, is Romanic. It is also quite significant that the walls of the Church of Sant Feliu are very thick and strong because it was placed outside of the city walls. The history of these monuments is very well explained by the audio guides, as are their main architectonic and artistic characteristics. These matters are beyond my scope here.

The medieval wall is the other important construction in Girona. Although it has been restored, a large part of it is original. Some towers have been rebuilt but the original walls are very well preserved. The reconstruction was made using red bricks.  Because of this, it is very easy to differentiate between the original parts and those that have been rebuilt. Approximately half of the original wall is preserved and you can walk on it from the Cathedral up to the end. Access is through some gardens, which are called the Jardins de la Francesa.

The centre of the town, much of which is pedestrian, is also very interesting since there are beautiful streets and squares with arches, which are very typical in old Spanish cities. The Onyar river runs through the city and it is very curious to observe how some houses hang over the river. The façades of these houses are painted with various colours. All these things, together with the view of the Cathedral above the houses next to the river, give the city a very beautiful appearance.

I stayed in a little apartment, which was really very practical and comfortable for a few days. I had everything necessary and the price was not excessive. In fact, it was even cheaper than lots of three star hotels. I only slept there for one night. There was television, internet and a little kitchen with a fridge, oven, microwave and washing machine – apart from the usual things you also find in a hotel, such as wardrobes, bed and bathroom. The bathroom was not very big but it was clean and perfectly adequate for one person.

The apartment was situated in a very good district. It was close to the Cathedral and the other main places of interest. The neighbourhood also had a great atmosphere. On the one hand, there were some nearby bar terraces for having a drink at night. There were also some cafes to have breakfast in the morning.  The district was very calm; even at night there was little noise. The only slight problem was that the train and bus stations were a little walk away. This is the main inconvenience in all big- or medium-sized cities: one has to choose between staying near the station or near the centre and the principal places of interest. In this case, I chose the second of these.

The apartment option also satisfied the needs that were dictated by the style of my trip. I was planning to be away from home for some days, being a tourist, but without changing my usual lifestyle and habits. The only place where you can feel as if you were at home is in another apartment. I was also able to save some money because I didn’t have to eat out twice a day, and it was healthier. What’s more, I didn’t need to depend on any timetable or rules.